Archive | Paris RSS feed for this section

Paris morning

By on February 9, 2008 in France, Paris

On our first trip to Paris, in 1995, I had terrible jet lag and hardly slept at all the first few nights. We were staying in a hotel just off Saint Germain, in a room on the sixth floor with a big dormer window that overlooked the rooftops of Paris and, off to the east, Notre Dame.

It was August, but not hot, perfect weather to leave that window wide open all night to all the sounds and smells of a summer night. Early in the night there would be dinner smells from La Procope next door and other nearby restaurants, later there would be tantalizing smells of baking bread and pastries. It was surprisingly quiet after midnight, with church bells, distant traffic and the ooga-ooga of an occasional ambulance.

At first light, I’d find myself standing at the window watching the sky turn pink and light up Notre Dame. The softest pink, which hasn’t survived in any of the non-digital photos I took that year (mostly over-exposed).

I’d stand there, watching and listening, until finally I’d smell strong coffee and hear the elevator start on the ground floor, meaning that Madame was bringing our breakfast.

The only sad part of this memory is that after a breakfast of cafe au lait, baguettes, butter and apricot preserves, I was finally exhausted and ready to sleep.

Paris plan #1: Take sunrise photos of Notre Dame

Four weeks from today, I’ll stand at my window to watch the sunrise over Notre Dame again, but from much closer, with a better camera, and with a much clearer and more rested eye (thanks to Ambien) .

Comments { 1 }

Anticipating Paris!

By on September 7, 2007 in France, Paris

Six months from today, we fly to Paris for a three-week stay. Not long by many people’s standards, but it will be our longest stay in one place (so far).

We’ve spent a week in Paris twice, and at least half a dozen times we’ve been there for one to four days at the beginning or end of a trip elsewhere. I remember every visit as a blur of activity, yet every time I left with a longer list of things I wanted to do the next time we returned.

From this distance, three weeks seems to offer endless possibilities. We’ll be able to fritter away whole days with just a long walk, lunch, and good long browse in a bookstore. There will be time to shop, and cook, and sit in cafes watching people. We’ll see the things we just never found time for during shorter stays.

March is early, and it will probably be cold, but that’s ok. I love cold weather for walking and exploring, although I would prefer not to have too many windy and rainy days.

Our apartment is booked. It’s just off the Quai de Montebello on the Left Bank, with incredible views of the back side of Notre Dame. We visited this apartment a few years ago, so we know it’s very nice, comfortable, and in a great location.

I love having six months to wait! I can make lists of things I’d like to do, and research them thoroughly to build our own custom travel guide. Maybe this time I’ll make it all the way through my online French lessons. Of course, I’ll lose a bunch more weight and have to buy all new clothes. I’ve already started buying more French cookbooks — as if I needed more French cookbooks — to pick out a few dozen perfect, easy recipes that don’t require lots of equipment or time for those evenings when we don’t feel like eating out but do want elegant French food.

I know this is is sounding suspiciously like an unrealistic list of New Year’s resolutions, but I can dream, can’t I? And I’ll keep track of my progress here…

Comments { 2 }

Misc Paris Thoughts

By on April 23, 2007 in Art, France, Paris, Travel

I’m so over the Sixth.

I got my first glimpse of Paris years ago when we emerged from the Metro at Saint Michel and walked down St. Andres des Arts to our hotel near Rue de Buci. I loved it, and have been slow to accept that it’s no longer my favorite part of Paris. This trip our hotel was in the same neighborhood except on a street that should have been quieter, but was still noisy all night long. About the time the parties ended, the garbage collection started. And the streets were packed with kids all day long. It’s just not my scene. Next time we stay elsewhere!

The Orangerie.

I’ve wanted to visit the Orangerie for years, checking before every Paris trip to see if the endless renovations were complete and it was finally open. Finally this time it was, and we were able to visit the two rooms with huge Monet waterlily paintings and the long narrow galleries in the basement (sort of reminiscent of being down in the tunnels of the Metro). A couple of the Monets were magnificent, the others I thought were mostly just big, but not his best efforts. Definitely not my favorite Paris art museum.

Jet lag.

My doctor startled me a few weeks ago by chortling and rubbing his hands and saying “Have I got a jet lag cure for you!!” when I asked for Ambien to get over the rough spots of jet lag. In addition to the sleepy pills, he gave me something called Provigil to keep me awake and alert through the first day when we arrived. It worked—I felt wide awake all day but not jittery and slept as well as could be expected through the parties in the street outside my window. A couple of days later, I’m realizing it didn’t prevent the jet lag, just delayed it. Ho-hum.

I LOVE Paris.

I realize this sounds grumpy, but don’t misunderstand me. Even though we just stopped over two nights and one day in Paris this trip, I loved it. It was the most perfectly beautiful spring day you could ever imagine, and we walked all day long. And the Laduree macarons were perfect!

Comments { 2 }